SEATING APPLICATION:
Contact us directly for past approvals
CLEANING CODE:
See Below
SPECIAL NOTES;
BILTMORE COLLECTION products have been used, and are recommended,
as wall covering. BILTMORE COLLECTION should be backed as this allows
it to be used with standard adhesives and hanging techniques. Backing
provides dimensional stability which helps prevent seam separation
and also minimizes risk of wallpaper paste bleed through. We provide
a lightweight polyester/cotton sheeting backer for wall applications.
Experienced installers should be used. Try a small sample to get
acquainted with how it hangs before starting the whole job. Recommended
adhesives are standard or heavy-duty vinyl premixed cement. Refer
to the manufacturer's instructions for use and suitability of the
adhesive you select. Prepare all surfaces as directed by the adhesive
manufacturer. Inspect all surfaces for foreign objects or contamination.
Complete surface coverage on all glued areas is critical to achieve
proper bonding. Missed areas will blister. Smooth by hand after
laying up material to insure 100% bond and to work out bubbles.
Double cut seams using sharp blades. Lightly brush as required.
For walls or panels where a padded effect is desired, it may be
necessary to use a prebacked foam. For applications requiring direct
cementing to wood, fiberglass, aluminum, etc. please refer to our
instructions on " Direct Cement Application".
DIRECT CEMENT APPLICATION:
This technique is used for direct cementing of BILTMORE COLLECTIONE
and other JOSEPH NOBLE materials to components with molded shapes
such as cowls, dashboards, door panels, and horizontal surfaces
like desk tops and tables. that are made of laminate, chipboard,
aluminum, fiberglass, etc. This procedure applies to JOSEPH NOBLE
products with and without our foam/tricot, knit, or sheeting backings.
If installing as a wall covering with standard vinyl wall cements,
please see our section on "Wallcovering.” Inspect all
surfaces for foreign materials and defects. Prepare surfaces as
per the instructions for the adhesive being used. For instance,
particleboard is porous and may need to be sealed, primed, or doubled
adhesive coated. Either a spray or
brushable contact adhesive may be used when coating substrates such
as laminate, chipboard, aluminum, etc. A brushable type has
the advantage of good wetting of the coated surface due to the brushing
actions. Use sprayable adhesive only on the BILTMORE
COLLECTION to keep the adhesive on top of the fibers and not push
it through to the face by the action of brushing. Thoroughly
cover both surfaces with adhesive. Missed areas or places where
there are voids or gaps in the adhered material may swell and bubble
when exposed to high humidity. Contact adhesives are most often
used. It must be appropriate for the specific application and the
material to which it will be applied; i.e. aluminum, wood, etc.
The container label, technical literature, or adhesive manufacturer
should be able to give you that information. Some water-based adhesives
tend to swell the JOSEPH NOBLE products until the water has completely
dried making the cover difficult to handle. Run samples and contact
your adhesive dealer for further guidance. Do not use pressure sensitive
adhesives, as they tend to creep with time and can result in thumb
printing, loss of bond, or wicking of the adhesive up to the face
of the material. After applying adhesive to the aluminum, etc. and
BILTMORE COLLECTION, allow the solvent to evaporate and laminate
the material before the adhesives open times have expired. Start
at the center of the piece and work out to the edges to stick the
cover down. To get extra stretch at difficult corners, apply a little
steam to the face of the BILTMORE COLLECTION as it is being stretched.
SOLID PANELS, CEMENTED:
For panels there are several approaches one could utilize - if the
panel is solid and smooth and can be cemented to the BILTMORE COLLECTION
without backing, following the suggestions under “Direct Cement
Application.” If standard water-based wall covering cements
are used, and the panel is wood, gypsum board, or other compatible
substrate, then use the polycotton sheeting backing and follow the
suggestions under “Wallcovering.” If a padded look is
desired, follow the stretch and staple instructions under “Solid
Panels, Upholstered.”
SOLID PANELS, UPHOLSTERED:
When a padded look is desired, and the foam tricot backing is not
used, then the panel should be upholstered using techniques discussed
previously. In summary, the foam padding is glued to the panel and
covered with a Dacron or other appropriate batting. Gluing the BILTMORE
COLLECTION directly to the foam is not recommended because it is
probable that there will spots where the adhesive coverage is low
which will result in areas where the foam-to-BILTMORE COLLECTION
bond is low. These low bond areas may bubble during high humidity
conditions. Using too much adhesive will saturate the foam and will
result in thumb printing or the foam taking a permanent set after
compression. Upholstering over foam alone is also not recommended.
This is because the foam does not become significantly compressed
by the cover and therefore does not provide push for the cover.
This is particularly the case in the center of a large panel. A
batting on the other hand, is compressed by the stretching of the
cover during upholstering and will push back the cover to help keep
it tight and smooth. The BILTMORE COLLECTION cover must be stretched
tightly and evenly over the panel before stapling in the back. Stretching
is very important, especially in large panels. Ideally, the BILTMORE
COLLECTION should be steamed or misted on the back. The introduction
of humidity into the nylon micro fiber matrix will make the BILTMORE
COLLECTION easier to stretch. After upholstering, when the panel
is in low humidity, the BILTMORE COLLECTION will contract and tighten
up.
OPEN PANELS AND STRETCHWALL:
For applications where padding will not push the cover, the foam
tricot backing has been used to help stabilize the BILTMORE COLLECTION.
An alternative is the knit backed BILTMORE COLLECTION. BILTMORE
COLLECTION without backing has been stretched over open panels but
is not as stable to humidity as the backed materials. Stretching
the BILTMORE COLLECTION is extremely critical is these applications
since the cover will not be pushed out and kept smooth by battings
and foams. The BILTMORE COLLECTION should be steamed or misted lightly
on the back and then stretched as much as possible in both directions.
Stretch evenly to avoid wrinkles. The cross machine direction generally
has more stretch than the machine direction. Attach the BILTMORE
COLLECTION securely after stretching, remembering that it will contract
and get very tight when it gives up its moisture to a dry environment.
If the clips in the panel are not adequate, the tension produced
by this contraction could pull the BILTMORE COLLECTION out of the
clip or track. By stretching the BILTMORE COLLECTION when it is
in a humid environment, it will remain tight in humid conditions
during use.
CUTTING
JOSEPH NOBLE products have been designed to emulate natural leathers
from their appearance down to the cell structure of their micro
fibers. The following are some tips to remember that should help
you when working with our products. We generally recommend you use
the same upholstery methods and techniques as you use for leather
to achieve the best looking results. Run a sample of each style
prior to cutting a whole job to see how it is going to perform and
that your patterns and layout are correct. Stretch across the roll
is greater than up the length of the roll. Stretch on the bias is
considerably greater than in any other direction. Sometimes this
can be oriented and used to your advantage. An example would be
on the inside back of a barrel back chair. Stretch is sometimes
greater with lighter colors than with darker colors. If you intend
to sew your cut pieces together, orient your patterns on the roll
to accommodate the stretch in relationship to the design of the
goods to which the cover is to be applied.
For example, the inside back of a highly contoured chair back might
need to be laid out so the top of the back pattern runs up the length
of the roll taking advantage of the stretch from side to side. The
pattern for the outside back may need to be cut with the top running
across the width of the roll taking advantage of the stretch from
top to bottom. Do not rule out orienting your cutting patterns at
a 45-degree angle to take advantage of the bias stretch if you need
it. Once you find the optimal orientation for your pattern layout,
mark it clearly on your patterns and see that it is followed consistently.
Pattern grain direction is a factor with some patterns such as our
AUSTRALIA. Nap is not a factor when laying out BILTMORE COLLECTION.
Moisture will absorb into the micro fiber matrix of JOSEPH NOBLE
products resulting in expansion and greater elasticity as with natural
leather. BILTMORE
COLLECTION is particularly susceptible to this phenomenon. JOSEPH
NOBLE products should be exposed to humidity prior to being cut
to allow for the expansion that takes place as the micro-fibers
absorb water. The cut goods should be kept in a humid state throughout
the upholstery process. However, if your shop is not climatically
controlled to regulate humidity you can steam the cover well during
the pattern development phase. Special sets of patterns for our
JOSEPH NOBLE products will depend on how they perform on your design
using your existing patterns. The following tips are things to consider:
Pattern Development.
Apply steam to the cover and tailor the cover to fit your job. Remove
the test cover and allow the moisture to dry. Model your patterns
from the test cover. If your patterns are correctly fitted while
the cover is in an expanded state this will negate the effects of
humidity in the future. BILTMORE COLLECTION easily generates static
electricity. This should serve as an early warning indicator that
conditions are too dry. Increasing the humidity levels in the environment
should help control static electricity. Grounded metal strips running
down the cutting table should discharge the energy as it is being
developed. Drag on cutting surfaces can be reduced by top coating
the tables with Teflon adhesive backed films laminated to the work
surfaces. Kraft underlay papers are also widely used. These and
other surface treatments are available through vendors such as Singer
Sewing Company, Cutters Exchange, Better Methods, Inc., and M.J.
Foley Co. Cut your entire unit from the same roll of fabric. Entire
orders should be cut from the same roll, if possible, or from the
same dye lot. BILTMORE COLLECTION may require time to settle back
into shape before cutting. Kraft papers between layers should facilitate
this. Layout patterns correctly as indicated to best accommodate
or utilize the stretch in the goods. Marking must be kept precise
when pieces are to be sewn to prevent problems later in the process.
A fine felt or ballpoint pen or sharp carbon pencil works well when
marked on the back side of the cover. Precision cutting is required
for small sewn pieces. Multi-layer cutting works best with a straight
blade cutter equipped with an automatic sharpening device to reduce
friction between the blade and cutting edge. Avoid slippage by not
over stacking. Blade speed should be kept down to 1600-3200 rpm
to avoid fusing the edges together as a result of the knives over-heating.
Single layer cutting can be done using any means preferred by the
shop. Replace patterns as often as required to assure their accuracy.
Always refer back to the master pattern to replace production patterns.
Notches need to be cut in the selvages to help prevent puckering
or bunching during sewing and upholstery. Experience is the key
to success.
CARE AND CLEANING
The special technology that created BILTMORE COLLECTION allows
for easy care and cleaning. Since liquid spills tend to "bead
up" on the surface, often all that is needed is quick action
with a dry cloth to absorb the liquid. Normal, regular vacuuming
with a soft brush attachment is recommended to remove dust deposits,
prevent soil build-up, and to keep the suede surface looking crisp
and new. Light stains and smudge marks often can be lifted off with
Scotch tape or removed with a soft eraser. Water-soluble stains
such as coffee, tea, juice, soft drinks, milk, beer, wine, etc.
can be removed by dabbing the affected area with clean water only,
mild soapy water, or a 50/50 solution of water and white vinegar.
Excessive rubbing is not necessary. A blotting action is always
preferable to a rubbing technique for stain removal. Remove excess
soap or vinegar solution by dabbing again with clean water and blotting
with a clean cloth. The material can be allowed to dry naturally
or dried quickly with a hair dryer using the warm setting. "Rings"
noticed after drying are usually the result of some residual soap
or cleaning solution remaining in the fabric. Most rings can be
removed by cleaning again with water only. For non-water soluble
stains such as grease, oil, shoe polish, etc.; use a petroleum solvent
such as naphtha (lighter fluid) or mineral spirits. Using a clean
cloth moistened with the solvent, dab the stained area and then
blot with a clean, dry cloth. Repeat if necessary. Work from the
edges of the stain toward the center to avoid enlarging the stain.
Rubbing the area carefully with fine sandpaper usually can repair
surface damage and minor cigarette burns. Removable covers can be
machine washed separately using the cool or warm water setting,
delicate cycle. Use mild detergent, no bleach. Do not pour detergent
directly onto the material. Spin and tumble dry low setting, or
spin and hang to dry in a shady area. Do not twist or wring. BILTMORE
COLLECTION covers can also be professionally dry cleaned using clean
perchloroethylene solvent, short cycle, tumble dry warm, steam only
followed by brushing to restore nap. To clean widespread dirt or
overall cleaning of upholstered pieces, a wet extraction process
is recommended, available through most professional cleaning services.
Although BILTMORE COLLECTION is spill resistant, supplementary treatments
such as Scotchguard can be used. Preliminary sample treatment is
necessary to ensure that the hand, texture, or color of the material
will not be affected. After any method of cleaning, it is important
to restore the nap by light brushing with a soft bristle brush after
the BILTMORE COLLECTION is completely dry.
Regular routine vacuuming, immediate attention to accidental spills,
and occasional brushing is generally all that is required to maintain
the luxurious feel and appearance of BILTMORE COLLECTION. Listed
below are some commonly asked questions:
How should I care for BILTMORE COLLECTION?
Many experts will tell you that the key to long life for carpets,
draperies, and upholstery fabrics is periodic cleaning. Just as
your woodwork needs an occasional dusting, that same airborne dust
and dirt is settling on your furniture. Simply brush BILTMORE COLLECTION
with a soft nylon bristle brush. Avoid a metal brush or one with
stiff bristles. If you have any doubts about whether your suede
brush is too stiff, compare it to a soft bristle toothbrush. Normal,
regular vacuuming will also remove dust deposits and prevent soil
build-up. A few minutes once a week will keep your BILTMORE COLLECTION
furniture looking fresh and new.
What about spills?
The micro fiber structure of BILTMORE COLLECTION causes many spills
to "bead up" on the surface. Often all that is needed
is quick action with a dry cloth to absorb the liquid.
What do I do about stains?
If a spill has been left to dry on BILTMORE COLLECTION don't be
alarmed. BILTMORE COLLECTION will easily "release" most
stains with normal cleaning techniques. Blot (if still sticky) or
brush out (if dry) any excess of the staining material. Water-soluble
stains can be removed by dabbing the affected area with mild soapy
water. Woolite is recommended, or any mild dishwashing soap
such as Joy or Dove will also work well. Avoid soaking the suede
as this will just result in a build up of soap in the material…instead,
dab the stain with soapy water and blot up the stain with a clean
cloth. A soft absorbent terry cloth or towel is good for this. For
more stubborn stains, brush with a soft toothbrush and blot. Another
good cleaning agent is a 50/50 mixture of white vinegar and water.
For non water-soluble stains such as grease, use a petroleum solvent
(mineral spirits, naphtha, or a spot remover using perchloroethylene).
Moisten a clean cloth with the solvent, dab the stained area, and
blot with a clean dry cloth. After cleaning allow the suede to air
dry or you can dry quickly with the warm setting of a hair dryer.
Brush to restore the nap.
What do I do about rings?
"Rings,” noticed after cleaning and drying, are usually
the result of some residual soap or cleaning solution remaining
in the fabric. Even water can leave a ring of minerals, salts, dust
or other contaminants. Rings or spots may also simply be areas where
the suede micro fibers have clumped together. Many rings can usually
just be brushed out. For a more stubborn ring, try cleaning the
area again with clear water. Use a sponge or soft clean cloth. A
"feathering" technique (working from the center out) will
help prevent the ring from reappearing. Blot out as much of the
water as possible with a dry towel. Quick drying with a hair dryer
(or fan) set at the warm setting can help prevent ring formation.
As always, brush when dry to restore the nap.
What about stains or soiled areas that are just too large to spot
clean?
For large areas, a wet extraction process is recommended, available
through most professional cleaning services. Or you can do it yourself
using a home wet vacuum system. An example is a Bissell carpet cleaner
with the small upholstery attachment. Use a mild soap and cool to
lukewarm water. Do not soak the suede. Spray and vacuum, lightly
brushing if necessary. Go over the piece with water only to remove
soap residue. Allow the suede to dry completely then lightly brush
to restore the nap. Removable cushion covers may also be washed
on a gentle cycle in a washing machine using cold water and Woolite
followed by a cold rinse. Air dry the suede or lightly tumble the
cover in a dryer on a cool setting. Brush the suede lightly after
drying.
Can I treat my BILTMORE COLLECTION furniture with Scotchguard or
other fabric protection?
Fabric protections such as Scotchguard, Fiberseal, Soilshield, etc.
have been used on BILTMORE COLLECTION. Professionals should apply
these in order to ensure adequate and complete coverage. With any
treatment, we recommend a preliminary test to make sure that the
hand, texture, or color of the material will not be affected.
What are the advantages of fabric treatment?
Good quality fabric treatments can enhance the water repellency
and stain release characteristics of BILTMORE COLLECTION. Many fabric
protection applicators guarantee their products and provide care
and cleaning guides for their customers. Many are also professional
cleaners who can provide quick and timely local service if needed.
Sometimes the buyer is simply more comfortable knowing a fabric
treatment has been applied, especially if a warranty comes with
it.
COLOR TRANSFER FROM BUFFING DUST:
Once in a while the occasion may arise where there is a transfer
of color from the BILTMORE COLLECTION to another fabric. Most of
these incidents are reported from the upholstery shop. If the shop
runs BILTMORE COLLECTION often, the odds are that eventually this
will happen. This may likely occur in the warm weather when the
upholsterer's hands and arms are sweaty and sticky and he may be
wearing a white or light colored T-shirt. After handling the suede,
there is color on his hands, arms, and shirt. Often the first reaction
is that the dye is bleeding. Most often what has happened is a transfer
of buffing dust. When BILTMORE COLLECTION is manufactured, one of
the final processes is to buff the surface to achieve uniform fiber
and nap length. The final buffing is with very fine abrasive and
since the fibers themselves are very fine also (0.001 to 0.01 denier),
the dust particles generated are tiny. A comparison may be made
to wood finishing when the last sanding of the wood or a urethane
gloss coat is done with very fine grit sandpaper. Then the final
finish is applied to the wood. The dust produced is difficult to
distinguish as individual particles. When BILTMORE COLLECTION dust
gets on a piece of clothing, these particles may look like a dye
bleed. After buffing, the dust is vacuumed out of the BILTMORE COLLECTION,
but once in a while some dust can remain within a few yards of a
bolt. While the dust can be vacuumed off the finished chair or sofa,
most furniture manufacturers simply blow the dust off with a stream
of dry compressed air from an air hose. This is usually done at
final inspection just before wrapping for shipment. This also serves
to clean sawdust, metal shavings, or other types of airborne dust
from the piece, which might have settled on it during its trip through
the shop. As for the upholsterer's white T-shirt, most of the dust
can be either brushed off or removed with masking tape or a lint
brush. If necessary, wash out the dust in the washing machine using
regular detergent in cold water followed by a cold rinse. A less
likely possibility is a complaint from the end user (the clients
first thought is that the color is bleeding.) Vacuuming will reduce
the amount of dust present. Regular vacuuming and occasional light
brushing with a soft bristle brush (similar to a soft toothbrush)
is recommended for normal maintenance of BILTMORE COLLECTION regardless
of buffing dust. Airborne dirt, dust, household sprays, air pollution,
etc. can settle on the suede during use. Just as a coffee table
is dusted regularly, the same dust lands on the BILTMORE COLLECTION
furniture, so it should be "dusted" also by vacuuming.
Dirt can act as an abrasive, shortening the life of any fabric.
Foreign material may cause the nylon micro fibers in BILTMORE COLLECTION
to cling together,
reducing the "tracking" effect of the nap. Through regular
use and vacuuming, the buffing dust should diminish to the point
where it is no longer a concern.
COLOR TRANSFER FROM DYE BLEED: Color might transfer from certain
dark colors of BILTMORE COLLECTION (such as Black, dark or bright
reds, and purples) to lighter colors, or to lighter fabrics or leathers
as a result of dye bleed. This can occur especially if the contrasting
materials are washed together or if the suede becomes wet during
use. A small amount of this dye bleed usually does not change the
suede color, but it can stain other materials. Therefore care should
be taken in the selection of the combination of BILTMORE COLLECTION
colors used in the same piece when they will be cleaned or washed
together. Care should also be taken when certain dark colors of
BILTMORE COLLECTION are used for throw pillows on light colored
sofas especially if the pillows may become wet during use. Other
materials such as vinyl, natural leathers, and some synthetic leathers
can
extract dye from BILTMORE COLLECTION when wet or under conditions
of elevated temperatures. This is because vinyl and
leathers contain oils, which can extract dye from many textiles.
Also, some natural and synthetic leathers have top finishes, which
can become soft and tacky when very warm and cause them to stick
to other materials. If you are considering using dark colors of
BILTMORE COLLECTION where they will come into contact with lighter
colored suede, fabrics, or leathers you should evaluate the color
compatibility first before fabricating your piece. Wet a piece of
the BILTMORE COLLECTION thoroughly and squeeze out excess water.
Place it in contact with a piece of the light colored fabric or
leather and insert it between two pieces of safety glass or other
clean, flat, water impermeable surface. Place a small weight (a
pound or two) on the top plate glass. After 24 hours,
separate the BILTMORE COLLECTION from the light colored fabric and
note any color changes. For vinyl and natural or synthetic leathers,
you should check for dye extraction by oils. Repeat the procedure
above using dry BILTMORE COLLECTION with the vinyl or leather between
plate glass and compressed with a small weight. Place in an oven
at 158F or 70C overnight. Dye bleed occurs when the suede is wet
or when oils or plasticizers extract the dye. A small amount of
color transferring to another fabric or to clothing under normal
use is not dye bleed but is residual buffing dust.
PROCEDURE FOR REMOVAL OF STAINS FROM BILTMORE COLLECTION - WET
EXTRACTION METHOD:
For occasions where dirt or stains cover a large area of a BILTMORE
COLLECTION sofa or a wall or ceiling panel, it may be too labor
intensive to attempt to clean it by a spot cleaning technique. Also
for times where the staining material is ground in or has been allowed
to soak into the suede, removal by wetting and blotting may be time
consuming and impractical. An alternative is to remove the stain
by a wet extraction technique. Professional cleaners often use such
equipment. Many homes have upholstery/carpet cleaning equipment.
An example is a Bissell carpet machine using the small upholstery
attachment. These can be purchased in department and discount stores
for $90 - $120. It may even be possible in a boatyard to use a shop
vac or equivalent wet/dry vacuum on panels. The basic equipment
involves spraying the suede with water and vacuuming it out along
with the suspended dirt. When using extraction equipment it is best
not to soak the suede but to wet and vacuum in one motion. Remove
dry dirt by brushing and vacuuming. Wet stains should be blotted
up as much as possible. Excess dried stains should be scraped off
with a spoon. Some materials may be partially removed by lightly
applying and removing scotch tape. Prepare a soap solution as follows:
1 gallon of water
1/4 cup Woolite
2 cup Vivid detergent with non-chlorine bleach
Transfer some of the soap solution to a 1-pint bottle equipped
with a trigger or pump spray top similar to those that are used
for many household cleaners. Spray the soap solution onto the stained
area. Lightly wet the area, avoid over soaking it. Brush the soap
solution into the suede with a soft brush (a soft toothbrush has
the right firmness). Do not scrub or rub excessively. Lightly work
the soap into the suede to soften the stain. Extract the soap solution
with cold water. Several rinses may be necessary. The suede will
darken when wet and may mask the stain. To determine whether another
washing is necessary, dry a small portion of the cleaned area with
a hair dryer to determine if any of the stain remains. Once the
stains have been removed, clean the entire panel or piece of furniture
to maintain a consistent appearance. Allow the piece to dry at room
temperature - usually overnight, then brush lightly to restore the
nap.
SPECIAL STAINS: INK
Not all inks are composed of the same materials. Technique will
also vary from one individual to another. The sooner that the ink
is cleaned, the greater the chances for success. Work with small
areas at a time. If more than one location is involved, work with
the most obscure or least visible area to test this procedure on
the particular ink involved. A product for BILTMORE COLLECTION with
which we have had good success is Blue Coral Dri-Clean Upholstery
Cleaner. It can be found at auto parts stores and in department
stores where the automotive supplies such as Armor-All and car waxes
are displayed. It is a clear pink-purple liquid in a trigger spray
bottle. There is also an aerosol foam product by the same name,
but it is not as effective on BILTMORE COLLECTION as the spray.
Follow the directions on the bottle and use a dab and blot technique
as previously discussed in the section on spot cleaning. Blue Coral
Dri-Clean can be used as a spot cleaner or as soap for wet extraction.
Blue Coral is manufactured by Blue Coral, Inc. Cleveland, Ohio 44105
Tel: 1-800-844-1080, Technical Assistance 1-800-416-1600.
SPECIAL STAINS: BLOOD
Note: Whenever handling blood or blood products, take appropriate
precautions and use proper techniques to prevent the spread of disease.
Bloodstains can usually be removed with cold water only. For fresh
blood, apply cold water to a clean white cloth. Dab the bloodstain
with the cloth and blot up the stain with a clean dry cloth. Repeat
the process until no more blood transfers to the cloth. If the blood
has dried on, it may be more difficult to soften and remove. Before
washing, gently scrape the dried blood with
a fingernail file or similar object. Avoid bruising the suede.
Use a soft toothbrush to break up the blood, and then use cold water
and a cloth as discussed above. If the water alone does not work,
try a dilute solution of a mild soap in cold water. Examples are
Woolite, or a hand dishwashing liquid such as Joy, Dove, or Ivory.
Do not use warm or hot water as it may set the bloodstain into the
suede.
SPECIAL STANS: OIL AND GREASE
Oil and grease do not respond well to attempts to clean with water
and often are stubborn even to efforts with soap and water. The
dilute solutions of soap and water effective against water soluble
food stains often cannot dissolve the grease or oil in order for
it to be removed. A better approach is to dissolve the oil or grease
with a solvent and blot it up. For oils, mineral spirits is a good
choice. (“mineral spirits” is a clear water-white solvent
sold in hardware and paint stores. It is a distillate of petroleum
and has a mild odor similar to kerosene. It is often sold as paint
thinner and is recommended for thinning and clean up of oil based
paints and
stains. It is a combustible liquid. Keep away from ignition sources
and use with adequate ventilation. Follow the manufacturer's label
instructions. Be sure to use mineral spirits. Avoid alcohols, ketones
such as acetone, and nail polish removers). Grease is generally
a
little tougher to dissolve. Try mineral spirits first, and then
if necessary, try perchloroethylene. It is a better grease solvent
than mineral spirits and has the advantage of being fast drying.
It has a strong odor and the fumes can be a safety problem if not
ventilated. Follow all manufacturers’ label instructions and
the Material Safety Data Sheet (M.S.D.S.). Before applying solvent
to the stain, remove any excess if possible. Grease may sit up on
the surface of the suede and may be removed by scraping off with
a knife. Oil is more fluid and may be partially blotted up with
a clean dry cloth. Avoid spreading the stain. Wet a clean white
cloth with solvent and dab the grease or oil stain with it. Quickly
blot up the stain with a dry portion of the cloth. Repeat several
times
until the stain appears to be gone and the cloth shows no more oil
is being picked up. Take care not to over wet the stain with solvent,
especially in the beginning of the cleaning process, because as
the solvent hits the stain and begins to dissolve it, the stain
will start to spread out. If the grease is heavy and stiff, gently
loosen it with a soft toothbrush. If a ring remains after the spot
is gone, then there is probably a small amount of stain remaining
that has been pushed out to the edges of the wetted area. Rewet
the spot with solvent and blot again with a clean cloth. Using a
hair dryer on a warm setting, blow air across the spot. As the spot
wet area shrinks lightly brush it with a soft cloth or your hand
to feather out the boundary between the wet area and the dry. This
should disperse the ring. Some types of stains such as shoe polish
have oil soluble and water soluble components. This requires cleaning
with a solvent followed by soap and water.
SPECIAL STAINS: CHALK
Some upholsters will use chalk to mark their patterns. The chalk
marks the suede with relative ease and compared to some other methods
of marking, it is easier to remove if required. Ball point pens,
china markers, and crayons etc. take considerably more time to remove
and for a large mark or area, the difference in total cleaning time
required could be substantial. Occasionally, the chalk may get on
the face of the suede or if the pattern is marked incorrectly, the
chalk mark will need to be removed. A chalk that will mark suede
relatively easily is a soft non-dusting variety. For our evaluations
we looked at Crayola Anti-dust White chalk on a dark color BILTMORE
COLLECTION. Our best results in removing chalk marks were achieved
by brushing the suede with a soft brush such as a soft toothbrush.
The brush loosens the chalk and is followed by brushing or fluffing
the suede with a soft clean cloth to disperse it. In the upholstery
shop, this can be accomplished quite well with a stream of clean
dry compressed air from an air hose. Cleaners such as mineral spirits
are also effective but were messier and more time consuming. The
solvent did not appear to improve the cleanability of the chalk.
It was actually the brushing of the suede that removed the chalk.
SPECIAL STAINS: MASKING TAPE
While masking tape can be used to clean BILTMORE COLLECTION in much
the same manner as a lint brush, it should only be lightly touched
to the suede and removed. NEVER RUB THE TAPE INTO THE SUEDE. NEVER
LEAVE TAPE ON BILTMORE COLLECTION FOR ANY PERIOD OF TIME. NEVER
USE TAPE TO MARK OR LABEL BILTMORE COLLECTION IF THE TAPE WILL NEED
TO BE REMOVED IN ORDER TO USE THE SUEDE. There will be occasions
when certain tapes will be applied to BILTMORE COLLECTION and allowed
to remain for a period of time. An example might be when a chair
is packaged and a plastic cover is inadvertently taped to the upholstery.
Masking tapes, as an example, have rubber adhesives that with time
tend to increase their peel adhesions to the surface of the material
to which they have been applied. The result is that when the tape
is removed, not all of the adhesive comes off with the tape but
some remains on the surface of the other material. With BILTMORE
COLLECTION, the tape may pull out some of the micro fiber and raise
the nap above the rest of the suede. The result may be a dark area
where the suede does not track with the rest of the piece. These
rubbery adhesives do not clean well with soap and water. Even some
of the more popular spray cleaners do little more than soften the
adhesive and "chase" it around.
If masking tape has been applied to suede and left for a time, the
tape will have a good bond to the micro fibers. If this is the case,
DO NOT PULL THE TAPE OFF THE SUEDE. The best way to remove the tape
safely is to soften the tape adhesive and remove it and the tape
at the same time. This way a minimum of adhesive remains on the
suede. The procedure with which we found good success used mineral
spirits (see above) and come clean white cloths. Avoid alcohols,
ketones such as acetone, and nail polish removers. Start with one
end of the masking tape. Work with a little of the tape at a time.
Wet a cloth with the mineral spirits and use it to wet the edge
of the masking tape. As the solvent penetrates the suede, it will
spread under the tape. When it reaches the tape adhesive it will
soften it. Gently lift up the tape and slowly pull it back to where
the solvent spot ends. You should feel the tape grab to the dry
suede. DO NOT PULL ON THE SUEDE!!! Repeat the same procedure again
until the tape has been completely removed. It is important to work
with a small area at a time and to be patient. Over-wetting the
tape with mineral spirits or leaving it too long on the suede after
wetting will soften the adhesive too much. When the tape is removed,
the adhesive will remain on the suede. Too little mineral spirits
on the tape or too little wetting time will not allow the adhesive
to soften adequately. Then when the tape is removed, some suede
fibers will go with it. The best technique is to wet a small area
at a time. Using light tension, gently pull the tape. As the adhesive
softens, the tape will give and the adhesive will go with the tape
and
the suede fibers will not be pulled. If possible wet the suede
and tape with the mineral spirits where the bond line is, allow
a few seconds for the adhesive to soften, then pull the tape until
it grabs. Typically this is only a quarter of an inch at a time.
If any adhesive remains after the tape is removed, wet it with mineral
spirits and try to roll it up into a ball and pick it off the suede
surface. Avoid pushing it down into the suede. If the suede is dark
or tacky, some adhesive may have been pushed down into the micro
fiber. Wet the spot with mineral spirits and blot with a clean cloth.
Brush up the suede with a soft toothbrush. After drying, lightly
brush the suede.
SPECIAL STAINS: GLUE
Some upholsterers use fabric spray adhesives in their shops. The
adhesive may be sprayed onto foam, frame parts, or onto cardboard.
Occasionally, a part covered with glue may bump up against a piece
of furniture covered in BILTMORE COLLECTION and some of the glue
transfers to the suede surface. The question now is how to safely
remove the adhesive? To reproduce this situation, we sprayed the
edge of a cardboard box with VWR Foam and Fabric Spray adhesive.
We then pressed the cardboard onto a piece of BILTMORE COLLECTION.
The result was a strip of adhesive on the suede. We let the adhesive
set for a couple of days to let the solvent dry. We found that several
solvents would loosen the adhesive without damaging the suede.
These are perchloroethylene, liquid carbona, and mineral spirits.
Whenever using solvents, use with adequate ventilation. The
perchloroethylene has the advantage of being fast drying but has
a strong odor and the fumes can be a safety problem if not ventilated.
If the solvent is flammable or combustible, keep away from sources
of ignition. Follow the manufacturer's label instructions and all
precautions. Consult the Material Safety Data Sheet (M.S.D.S.).
We had good luck with mineral spirits (see above). We began by dabbing
a clean white cloth in the mineral spirits, getting it damp but
not dripping wet. Dab the edge of the adhesive mark with the cloth,
wetting the adhesive and a small area around it. Lightly rub or
brush the adhesive with the objective of getting it to ball up and
roll off the suede. Avoid pushing the softened adhesive down into
the suede. After the adhesive appears
to be gone, brush the suede, still moistened with mineral spirits
with a soft toothbrush or similar brush to break up any residual
adhesive and blot with a clean dry cloth. Mineral spirits dries
slowly so it may be necessary to speed up the process by blowing
warm dry air over the spot. If the spot dries dark, there may be
a little adhesive left in the suede. Rewet with mineral spirits,
brush, and blot. Sometimes the mineral spirits may leave a ring.
If this happens, lightly brush the ring with a cloth dampened with
mineral spirits, then brush the suede lightly as you dry it with
a hair dryer, etc.
AVAILABLE / STANDARD BACKINGS
JOSEPH NOBLE products are used in a wide variety of applications.
For some of these applications we may recommend a particular backing
for better and easier installation. JOSEPH NOBLE products have good
tensile and tear strengths without backings and the additions of
backings are not necessary for this purpose. Rather the backings
perform other functions such as providing softness, acoustical properties
and additional thickness (foam tricot backings). Backings may be
used to reduce the stretch of the BILTMORE COLLECTION (poly/cotton
sheeting), or to provide dimensional stability during high humidity
conditions (foam tricot, sheeting, and knit). JOSEPH NOBLE does
not stock backed products, but backs to order at our mill. This
adds a week or two to the delivery time so take this into consideration
before ordering.
POLY/COTTON SHEETING:
BILTMORE COLLECTION and all the faux leather JOSEPH NOBLE products
can be backed to a polyester/cotton plain weave sheeting fabric
for wall covering applications where standard or heavy duty water
based wall cements are used. The purpose of this backing is to take
the stretch out of the material and to provide dimensional stability.
Without the backing, the BILTMORE COLLECTION could be stretched
during hanging and then shrink after the adhesive dries resulting
in seam separation. The cement used to combine the sheeting to the
BILTMORE COLLECTION also reduces the tendency of the nylon micro
fiber matrix to absorb the wall cement. (See our discussion under
“Wallcovering”). Poly/cotton sheeting backed BILTMORE
COLLECTION can also be used in direct cement applications with contact
cement when there are no rounded or complex shapes involved where
stretch ability would be necessary. The polycotton sheeting does
firm up the hand of the BILTMORE COLLECTION so it is generally not
recommended for upholstery applications.
1/8 INCH FOAM AND TRICOT:
Our standard backing for headliner application is a 1/8 inch polyurethane
foam backed to a nylon tricot knit. The foam provides acoustical
properties and a soft cushiony feel. The tricot knit supports the
foam and provides a smooth slippery surface to slide across a plywood
panel when covering, and prevents the foam from grabbing the wood
and bunching when stretching the material. Together the foam and
tricot help to stabilize the BILTMORE COLLECTION during periods
of high humidity. In headliner applications where a foam padding
under the BILTMORE COLLECTION is desired, the installer should not
attempt to glue BILTMORE COLLECTION to their own foam. Invariably
they will have spots with low bond, which will bubble in high humidity
or will use too much cement and saturate the foam resulting in thumb
printing. Our backer uses a special process to obtain a strong bond
between the foam and the BILTMORE COLLECTION continuously throughout
the roll of material. BILTMORE COLLECTION products with foam tricot
can be used in stretch and staple applications. Be sure to stretch
properly. They may also be used in direct cement applications with
contact cements.
1/16 INCH FOAM AND TRICOT:
Constructed the same as the 1/8 inch foam and package with a thinner
foam, this backing can be used in the same manner. A thinner package
may be necessary due to space constraints such as tightly fitting
panels that cannot accommodate the thicker package. A thinner foam
will have less tendency to form folds or creases on tight concave
curves. 1/4 inch foam and tricot is constructed the same as the
1/8 inch package, a 1/4 thick version is available for special applications
where a thicker material is desired.
COTTON KNIT:
A cotton knit backing is available for special upholstery and other
applications to provide dimensional stability while still allowing
plenty of stretch. BILTMORE COLLECTION and the faux leather JOSEPH
NOBLE products are used primarily in upholstery applications where
the vast majority is used without any backing.
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